Wednesday, August 9, 2017

Fall Crops, easy crops for beginners part 5 Spinach and Broccoli

And we are back with the 5th entry in the FALL CROPS series!! In this entry I will be covering on how to plant and take care of Spinach and Broccoli! Let's get started..

     Bloomsdale Spinach, 7 days after seeds were sown


     Spinach is one of those consistent crops I grow every Spring, Fall and Winter in Las Vegas. Spinach can be cooked or eaten raw and will still taste incredibly delicious! The flavour profile changes tremendously when Spinach is grown throughout different seasons. I recommend Spinach to every single beginner gardener because it's extremely easy to take care of when planted correctly and can even grow throughout harsh winters due to it's high sugar content, making the crop pretty much resistant to freeze.

Bloomsdale Spinach, 45 days after seeds were sown

     As you can see, certain varieties of Spinach can grow larger leaves than normal, making it a great staple vegetable in your garden. Spinach can become a large plant if you let it creep on the ground like I do, waiting to harvest fully grown leaves. Or you can harvest spinach leaves that are about 2-4 inches (5-10cm) wide, which is a baby version of the full sized leaf and is also fully nutritional at that stage. I give my spinach plants some extra space between each seed when I plant, 8-10 inches (20-25cm)  apart, so I can have various sized leaves when I harvest. When harvesting Spinach, make sure to pull each leaf out singularly so that the regrowth happens a lot faster, when you leave bits of stem still attached to the main Spinach head the plant thinks that the leaf died and wasn't harvested. This then shocks the plant and tricks it into sending out seed shoots to ensure it's future survival.

Di Cicco Broccoli, 50 days after seed germinated


     Broccoli is another staple fall crop in my household, everyone loves fresh grown broccoli. Roasted, steamed, raw, baked or put into a pie Broccoli is another crop that can change your dishes flavour profile immensely. I always grow a couple plants of Broccoli each Spring, Fall and Winter because of how quickly the crop regenerates after harvesting several Broccoli heads from the plant. The typical time-frame from harvesting a head of broccoli to full regeneration various and usually for me only takes about 3-4 weeks. Which isn't that bad considering it took a full month and a half to produce the original head of Broccoli in the first place.

     I plant my broccoli seeds about 10-12 inches (25-30cm) apart from each other so that when the plant fully develops, it will have enough air flow in between each other and won't compete for nutrients. I prefer more space between Broccoli plants because in my experience stagnant air can cause loads of bacteria issues on the leaves and head of the Broccoli. Which is a complete downer, but I mean as humans we don't live shoulder to shoulder with people do we? We have space to breathe and grow, plants need this as well not just for aesthetic reasons but for health reasons.

     That is it for this entry of FALL CROPS friends! Subscribe to my Google+ and Social Media outlets to stay tuned in with all these blog posts and future videos. I send blog emails daily to my followers about relevant garden topics for the current and on-going seasons. And thank you for reading my media and always being there. <3

Happy Gardening

Farmer Jeff

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Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Fall Crops, easy crops for beginners part 4 Kale, Leeks and Garlic

Welcome back for the fourth blog post in my series of FALL CROPS 😎

Blue Curled Scotch Kale, grown from seed 40-65 days from harvest

     In this post, I will be going over more beginner Fall crops that need minimal upkeep and will ensure a potential harvest. I chose to write about Kale, Leeks and Garlic this entry because these crops grow exceptionally well with each other. Leeks and Garlic act as a natural bug repellent for the Kale, making it a bit easier for the gardener to tend to other parts of their garden. Also the vegetable crops feed off of each other. Every plant sucks in nutrients through the root system but also puts back certain nutrients it doesn't need for growth. In this case, Garlic will improve the overall growth of your Kale by accumulating traces of sulfur through its growth, which the Kale will feed off of increasing it's overall plant health whilst enhancing its flavour.

Red Russian Kale, 3 weeks from planting and about 3 more before first harvest

     Kale is a versatile crop, you can use it in almost do anything with it and it'll still taste amazing πŸ˜‹ I've grown almost every single cultivar (breed) of Kale there is out there and I still am amazed at how each cultivar has it's own unique flavour. Regarding SOIL for your Kale plants, I find that high NITROGEN soil with WORM CASTINGS does wonders for your Kale plant. When planting your Kale seed leave about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) of space in between each plant. Or if you plant on having the Kale plant in your garden for several seasons, leave about 12-16 inches (30-40 cm) in between each plant so that the roots will not be competing for nutrients. I recommend mulching your Kale, if you are indeed growing it from the Spring season, about two weeks after Fall has started so that it will ensure your Kale plant has enough nutrients in the soil to continue growing you a viable and healthy crop for weeks to come.

     I grow my Kale year round, but there are particular times to start your Kale plant in your outdoor garden. I recommend starting your Kale a week after frost in Spring and between 2-3 weeks after Fall has started. Reason being is that during those time-frames are the perfect conditions for your seeds to germinate without much fail. I've personally have had a Kale plant last through 3 growing seasons producing healthy and nutritional leafy greens on a consistent basis. If you take care of the plant, you can get about 4-5 lbs (1,8 - 2,2 kg) of a harvest every 5-6 days. Isn't that amazing?!

Alto Leeks, 60 days from planting 50 days from harvest

     Leeks are one of my addictions and also one of the higher end costing vegetables from the farmers markets. I grow around 300 each Fall for my family because we use them in loads of different stews, soups, pies, stir fry and tons of other recipes. Leeks require soil that has high levels of Nitrogen and also soil that can drain exceptionally well, if you have soggy soil you WILL run into mold issues at the bulb of your Leeks.

Blue Scottish Leeks, 100 days after seeds sown

     As you can see above I planted my seeds pretty close to one another, reason being is that Leeks are one of the crops that take transplanting exceptionally well. When you do transplant, soak the bed a little bit so that it is easier to pull the Leeks out individually instead of all together. Then replant each Leek with about 4-6 inches (10-15cm) of space in between each other. That way you will get thick, healthy Leek stalks and you can just pull them from your garden as you need. Again, this is another crop I grow year round and once you have your garden soil set up, you really don't need to tend your Leeks that often. Most cultivars (breeds) take about 120-210 days to fully mature, it is a slow growing crop but totally worth the wait. 

Italian Purple Garlic, 150 days after planting clove 

     Garlic is another staple crop in my household, we use it on a daily basis. So it is another vegetable I grow on the heavy side. Garlic is super picky with it's soil, it has to be well drained and have certain key nutrients in it. Those nutrients are Nitrogen, Sulfur, Potassium and Phosphorus. The best fertilizer in my experience for Garlic is animal manure, in my case I use horse manure. Just like Leeks, Garlic can run into mold issues if you have soggy soil problems.

     When you plant Garlic, you actually plant it by the clove. Yes, the clove. So find a specific type that you like to eat and buy a head of it. When you get home take it apart CAREFULLY, you will want to keep the skin on the cloves. If you remove the skin the Garlic will not sprout it will just mold in your garden and cause potential infestation issues. Plant each clove with the skin on about 6-8 inches (15-20cm) apart from one another. It'll take some time before you harvest the crop, about 120-200 days depending on cultivar (breed). But on the plus side I've had certain heads of Garlic store in my pantry for up to 6 months and they were still edible. So figure out how much Garlic you go through and plant a bunch, then store for later use. It's always nice to have home grown Garlic ready for cooking😘

     That's it for this entry in my Fall Crops series, don't you just want to start growing your own food and reaping the healthy rewards?! Again thank you for reading my posts, but more importantly thank you for taking the first step to bettering your health and the planet. Follow me for e-mail updates on my posts and stay tuned for future posts in this series.

Happy Gardening

Farmer Jeff



Monday, August 7, 2017

Fall Crops, easy crops for beginners part 3 Escarole, Romaine, Bibb, Red Leaf Lettuce & Bok Choy

FALL CROPS BLOG SERIES PART 3


      We are back with the third entry in our "Fall Crops" Blog Series for beginner gardeners! In this post we will be covering more Fall Crops that are super easy to maintain and have high return on harvest and nutritional value. Let's get started!


Escarole, Romaine Lettuce , Red Leaf Lettuce and Bibb Lettuce
harvest 25-50 days after seeds are sown

     Whenever anyone thinks of Fall Crops, they barely mention lettuce. Lettuce or Salad Greens are almost always associated with Spring, but they can grow year round if you know how to manipulate your garden into having a series of different micro-climates. Most Lettuce or Salad Greens contain solid amounts of Vitamin A & K, which aides various organs in our body. (The heart, lungs and kidneys). 

     As you can see in the photo I mixed my Salad Greens together, they are not grown in individual rows. I did this for aesthetic reasons not because of some grand scheme. You can plant one variety in rows if you'd prefer. When I sow my Salad Greens I plant extra, reason being is that when you thin Salad Greens, they can just go right into a salad bowl as a micro or baby version of your fully grown crop. When I thin I leave at least 2-4 inches ( 5-10 cm ) of space in between each head of lettuce. 


Bok Choy, 
harvest 30-55 days after seeds sprouted

     I've always grown Bok Choy in spring and fall. So for me it's a must have! Super hardy plant, little disease and infestation issues. An extremely easy crop to grow for first time gardeners! Whenever I went to the lower level public schools and the students who have never been in a garden before come to see what is growing, I have them plant their own Bok Choy seed. Just by doing that gesture the student was more involved and wanted to actually see their seed grow. I have always had success with this method and that's why I recommend it as a beginner crop. If a 5 year old can do it, you can too. 😁

     Bok Choy has high traces of Vitamin A, Fiber, B-complex Vitamins, Calcium, Potassium, Phosphorus, Manganese and Iron. Making it a well sought out vegetable for people whom are doing RAW diets and are Vegan or Vegetarian.

     In the photo above, you can see the Bok Choy is fully mature. I planted the seed about 35 days ago, and that is the result of growth. When I planted the seed I made sure to have enough space, about 10-12 inches ( 25-30 cm ) of space in between each seed. I gave it that much space just so that the airflow in between each crop won't be stagnant, if it is stagnant it can lead to a whole slew of bacteria issues that you can just avoid by planting at proper lengths. I planted 4 seeds in each hole, thinning out as they sprouted leaving the best looking plant left so it can grow into the beauty you see above. 

     Remember folks, all we have is time! Why not pass the time with a beautiful vegetable garden that you can reap the benefits from and share its bounty with your loved ones. Or if you are just a health nut then why don't you start a garden for your own well being. Freshest most nutritional food comes straight from the garden, not from the market were it takes time from shipping and handling to then being put on display in the market. Which usually takes about two weeks! So imagine all those nutrients that are dieing off because of the way our food is handled. 

Until next Episode....

Happy Gardening

Farmer Jeff😍



Sunday, August 6, 2017

Fall Crops, easy crops for beginners part 2 Pumpkins & Eggplant

Hello Friends!!

     It's the continuation of Fall Crops! In this post I will be talking about more beginner level vegetable/fruit crops that you can grow with minimal effort. So let's get started 😁

New England Pie Pumpkin, Harvest after 65-90 days from germination

     Whenever I think of any fall crop the first thing comes to my mind are pumpkins. Pumpkins are extremely versatile. You can store them up to 4 months and they will still be edible. You can turn them into home grown jack-o-lanterns and make it a new family tradition. Or you can just harvest them right away, make some pies or dredge them in tempura batter for a quick fry. Pumpkins are  high in vitamin A, fiber, antioxidants and potassium.

     When planting your pumpkins please make sure you have enough space for a huge vine to grow. I've grown over 20 different varieties of pumpkins and certain vines can grow from 15 feet ( 4,5 metres ) long to 35 feet ( 10,6 metres ) long. Sow 3-5 pumpkin seeds in your garden, and when the seeds have sprouted thin out your pumpkin seedlings to one plant. That way you can get the most nutritional value from your pumpkin harvest and also you will have an easier time maintaining one pumpkin vine instead of 3 growing from the same spot. A word of caution with pumpkins, you will have some squash bugs attack your vine!!  The best and most effective organic way to deal with squash bugs is by using diatomaceous earth, which is a powder. You can either sprinkle the powder all over your plant or use an accordion sprayer (a miniature bellows) to apply the powder all over the foliage of your vine, front and back of leaves.
Black Beauty Eggplant, harvest 55-80 days after germination
Plant can last up to 3 growing seasons

     Eggplants are the one crop that I always think I end up planting enough of but end up getting a ridiculous bounty from just 1 plant. The photo above is also a harvest from just 1 plant and the most amazing thing is your Eggplant bush can provide you with a harvest like this every 3 weeks. Eggplant is rich in antioxidants, helps lower cholesterol, high in fiber, and vitamins A, B & C.

     When looking for a spot to plant your Eggplant starters there are several factors that come into play. First, make sure to have enough space. Eggplants can grow to 4 feet ( ) in circumference. Second, make sure to have something to trellis the Eggplants on. For me being in a valley, the wind can rip through at high speeds. So it is best to secure the plant either by trellising it or by using poles to keep the stems of the plant from just lying on the ground. You do NOT want to have your crop lying on the soil because the portion of the crop that is sitting on the soil will start to mold. Third, make sure to have some thick gloves and be careful when you tend to this plant. Eggplants have thorns on the crop itself and on the plant. The only issues I have had with growing Eggplants are rust spots, which can be easily taken care of with a quick Calcium Magnesium solution. 

     I hope my research helps you all out with deciding what to plant and your concerns growing pumpkins and eggplants for fall. I find so much joy writing these guides for you all. I cannot thank you enough for living my passion with me. Again thank you all and please follow/subscribe to stay updated with all my posts and future videos. I post on Instagram daily, so follow me if you'd like. Mention that you found my blog and I will promote your Instagram! Till next time folks....


     Happy Gardening!!

Farmer Jeff <3






Saturday, August 5, 2017

Fall Crops, easy crops for beginners Part 1 Kohlrabi, Turnips & Cabbage

Hello Friends!!

     It's such a beautiful time of year. The weather starts to cool down, rain storms pass by every week which means it is the perfect time to start your fall garden to have a huge bounty throughout the season, especially for holiday events like Halloween or Thanksgiving. I figured, why not share my fall planting tips and what fall crop I plant with you all. So let's get started!

 Kohlrabi, grown for 55-75 days before harvesting

     Kohlrabi has a high nutritional value, high fiber content and low calorie count. The flavour is compared between a broccoli stem and cabbage, which I agree with but has a sweeter taste. Now when I plant this crop I always leave 8 inches of space (20 cm) in between each seed I plant so that the crop will have enough space to grow healthily, also so that the air in between the plants does not become stagnant. That is when serious bacteria can develop. When its harvest time I pull the whole crop out cut the stem off, clean it and freeze it. The stem is also edible but I use it for vegetable stock. Waste not want not!

Milan Purple Turnip, grown for 40-65 days depending on what size you want

     Turnips are super delicious and provide us with antioxidants, minerals vitamins and dietary fiber which our body needs to function at a healthy level. Only downside is that this crop, like kohlrabi, has a low calorie count as well. When I sow my turnip seeds I am not too worried about sowing too many at once, reason being turnips are super easy to thin and replant. The turnip will go into shock when you replant it, what I do is water the replanted turnip a bit extra for 3-4 days. After the turnips have started growing I thin the crop so that there is at least 3-4 inches (7-10 cm) of space in between each one. That way the turnip can grow to a decent globe form without impacting the vegetable growth itself.


Cabbage, 55-70 days from seed sowing. Some varieties take on faster.

     Cabbage is a versatile crop, you can cook it in almost any type of cuisine and it will taste brilliantly delicious. Cabbage is a great source of antioxidants and vitamin C, with a low calorie count and also low fat count. Great vegetable if you are into eating raw, vegan or vegetarian. When I sow my cabbage seeds I only sow 3-4 seeds at a time. Cabbage does not take well when thinning and replanting so I would rather not waste any of my organic seed just to make sure I get a cabbage crop. What I do is I start my baby cabbage inside for about 2 months, June-July for fall planting and October-November for spring planting. After that propagation period I bring my cabbage starters to the garden and plant them with 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart depending on how big of a cabbage crop I'd like. 

I'll be posting more Fall Crop blogs daily so keep a look out for them!

Happy Gardening!

Farmer Jeff

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Friday, August 4, 2017

Fall Planting!!

Hello Friends!

Artichoke Heart Blossom

     Yet again another growing season has passed and fall is upon us! Now is the time you should start planting any fall crop from seed, it is the perfect germination temperature for your seed. Now all that is left is to figure out what you should be planting!


     For me I always figure out what fall crops I will be planting by looking through various fall cooking recipes that my family uses on a consistent basis. Then I take it a step even further, I research the higher cost crops for my region and then decided which crops I should plant heavily or not based on the amount I need for the fall. And if I over grow some vegetables/fruit, I share the bounty with my neighbors, community and loved ones.

Haricot Vert Dinner Harvest

     So how does one determine when a seed should go into the ground? Well pay attention to your weather. For my region I plant a bit early compared to other gardeners in other areas. my area (Las Vegas) has high chances of dry heat with minimal humidity, which can cause huge bounties of crop or can dwarf the crop depending on how the plant is taking to the extreme weather patterns.

     I do everything from seed, and the way I plant my seed is only digging about half an inch into the soil and over sowing certain types of vegetables just so I can thin them out and replant in a different spot in my garden. If you have sown a bit too much and can't replant anywhere in your garden due to space, I recommend using that crop as a component in your compost. Turn that waste to garden soil!


     Go out there and get your hands dirty and bring a smile to your plate!

Farmer Jeff

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Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Beets, An easy and rewarding crop

BEET CRAZY!

Ruby Red Beet
(Sow 2-3 seeds every 6-8 inches)


Hello friends,

        It's been super hot the past couple of weeks, and I have been going at it non-stop! I had a chance to start planning my future crop for my fall garden. So I thought to myself, what should I grow that will store well in the pantry and what vegetable is on the higher price end of my market list. After a long deliberation with my fiancee debating which recipes we will be using during the fall, we narrowed down the list. We chose beets because of being able to use multiple parts of the crop, including the beet greens that just constantly keep regrowing after harvesting them above the beetroot.


       We started by planting a 3 foot by 3 foot garden, making rows every 6 inches (6 rows in total). Then we started planting 2-3 seeds every 6-8 inches apart, giving enough space to thin and replant any beetroots that need room to grow properly. Be prepared to see growth within a week, and in about a month you can enjoy the tender beet greens the beetroot will start to produce.

 
       I've always been asked, "How big can I grow my beet? If I grow it too big will it still be edible?" Personally I've grown some ridiculous sized beetroots (just to motivate the students I taught throughout the Clark County School District on how to garden) which you can see in the photo above. It is still edible, I would recommend to use it in a juice or reduction because of the woody texture from being grown a bit big. Children love pulling this crop out from the ground just because they only can see a portion of the beetroot and find it as a competition to pull the biggest one out.

       Beetroots are one of the easiest and least stressful plants to grow for the amateur or beginning gardener, or if you feel like growing them for your students/children. Again thank you for reading and please stay in touch with future blog posts, I post daily on Instagram!

Happy Gardening!

Farmer Jeff


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Friday, July 7, 2017

Tomatoes, Tomatoes, Tomatoes!!


(Cherry Tomatoes, 11 Weeks from plant to Harvest)

     Everyone asks me when it comes to planting and caring for tomatoes, what are the best kind to do well in the desert. I always tell them, any variety you want can do well the trick is taking care of them and pruning the plant properly. I always prune the extra foliage, which was the technique passed down to me by my forefathers, in order to put the tomato plant into a form of stress. This stress will push the plant into producing more seed to ensure a future generation of crop will be available. When you do prune the plant, that specific site will be a future node for flowers to form. DO NOT throw away your foliage that is viable as a transplant. Simply shave a bit of the stem off and drop the plant in a bit of water so it can create fresh roots.

(Julietta and Caprese Tomatoes, 10 Weeks from plant to Harvest)

     Every single time I prune my vines that way I end up with an extremely healthy bountiful harvest, like in these photos. To ensure the plant continues its flowering and growth cycle I use another technique called "trench composting". What I do is find the main root mass in the earth and bury composting crops about 1-2 feet into the ground and bury it. This will ensure that the eggshells or rotting veggies with breakdown properly without any smell and that the plant will access these beneficial bacteria through their roots without having to stretch too far to find nutrients.

(Caprese Tomatoes, 10 weeks harvest from planting)

    I always say it is better to experiment with quantities of trench composting rather than not trying it at all. We all learn from mistakes and won't exceed our boundaries without a little experimentation and R&D. I hope this helped you with some information regarding how to care for tomatoes. Be on the lookout for plant care videos in the future. I promise I won't blast you with music this time :).

Happy Gardening!!

Farmer Jeff


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Peppers, A guide to cultivation.

Peppers, Peppers, Peppers!!


     Hello again friends, another beautiful summer day and all I can think about are peppers. Here in the high desert, during June and July I always cover my crop to lower the ambient temperature as much as possible whilst also preventing sun burns on my potential crop. This time-frame is particularly important for any plant because if you don't watch the stress levels they are under outside in the hot sun it will totally result in a poor harvest the following seasons, which isn't worth the wasted effort in my opinion.

 (Chocolate Jalapeno Peppers, 8 weeks from plant to harvest)

     To get a bountiful harvest like you see here, takes a lot of patience and not so much pruning. So key thing for plants during the summer here is to NOT prune anything. Reason being that the extra foliage will protect your potential crop from the sun. Trust me you want the extra foliage, it'll save you the hassle and stress over freaking out about the state of the plant.


 (Poblano Peppers, 9 weeks from plant to harvest)

     As you can see in this photo, some of the plants were not covered during those hot months. Leaves quite the ugly burn on your crop which isn't a great thing especially if you are planning on sharing/selling your crop to friends and local foodies. Not only did the burn cause cosmetic damage to the crop but it also added more stress to the plant and the result was a less bountiful crop than what was projected. I could of gotten more peppers from the plant if I just provided it with some shade. Most vegetable plants will stop fruiting at about 95 F/ 35 C just because it is too hot for the plant to produce viable flowers that will hold above that temperature.

(Pepper Mix; Cayenne, Pepperoncini, Thai Dragon, Green Habanero)

     These pepper plants were covered, and I had an extremely bountiful harvest. 5 full bags of peppers that had to be given away in the long run. But that's the point of gardening, to bring joy to you and those around you with an organic crop that you couldn't get at your everyday market. So, please to save yourself the trouble and to reward yourself with a more bountiful crop to keep the gardening alive in your soul, treat your plants with the utmost respect and positivity. Your plants will recognize it and provide you with more than you need. 

     Again friends, feel free to contact me with any questions and concerns regarding anything for plants, and I will of course reply. Till next time...

Happy Gardening!

Farmer Jeff


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Microgreens are Fun and Easy!!

Hello again!


(Alto Leeks, 3 weeks of growth harvest by week 5)

      There is nothing better than watching your plants grow into a beautiful crop then devouring every tasty morsel right at the table. I've always been asked what are the easiest things to grow with a high return. Most people assume a root crop or flowers, which are easy but if you don't have even time to thin and replant after sowing seeds then you are honestly just wasting your precious seeds. 

     So what I recommend is to look through what herb or leafy green you constantly reach for whilst preparing your food, and choose that as your starter Microgreen. 

(Basil mix; Red Ruben, Thai, Lemon and Sweet Varieties)

     Here are some leeks and basil varieties that I have grown from seed in a mix of coconut coir and vermiculite. I used the flood and drain method (I'll go over in detail in another post) but what I suggest for beginners is to use a spray bottle with some nutrients in it and most the seeds and eventually the foliage when they develop. This will ensure great growth and a fool proof method to get some crop at the table, in about 15-25 days from when you have sown your seeds.

     Feel free to comment/message with questions regarding anything related to Microgreens or the nutrients needed. Again friends don't fear the garden. Engross yourself in it. 


Happy Gardening!

Farmer Jeff


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Thursday, July 6, 2017

I'm Back! Get Ready for More Content!!

Hello Fellow Greenthumbs!!


 (Heirloom Nantes Carrots, grown from seed)


     It has been quite a long time since I have posted anything, but that will change! I have more free time and that means more time to write.

     I was busy with setting up several public school vegetable gardens throughout the Las Vegas valley, which to be quite frank was absolutely amazing and rewarding in itself! I taught students from grade kindergarten to seniors in high-school how to cultivate and harvest their own vegetables/fruit. I also helped several culinary students and chefs with vegetable grows for dinners, I'll post photos of that sometime in the near future! These past two years have been quite the journey for me. I learned various ways how to get anyone involved in the future of agriculture and I also turned some individuals into absolute foodies, which is an amazing feat I believe.


(Heirloom Rainbow Radish Mix, grown from seed)


     Please keep in touch with my blog for future updates, also follow me on Instagram @DesertOrganicFarmer for constant and delicious photos, don't worry I'll follow back ;). Again friends, stay tuned for more content!

Happy Gardening!

Farmer Jeff

Thursday, March 20, 2014

♥ MY ALLIUMS PROGRESS!! ♥

ORGANIC DESERT ALLIUMS

   I do not know about you guys, but I absolutely LOVE the smell my Alliums give off in my Organic Desert Garden. I just cannot resist taking a piece off of one and munching on it whilst I tend the garden. It seriously tastes completely different than any type of Allium I have bought through the local grocery stores ever. There is seriously nothing to compare it to other than being ten times more flavourful and ten times more refreshing. All of these Alliums are from my Fall run last year, yes they have not been harvested. The reason being is that any Alliums planted during Summer, Fall and/or Winter takes (in most cases) twice as long to mature.


ORGANIC DESERT ALLIUMS

   The reason being that the sun is not around long enough through Fall and Winter to provide the much needed light and heat. Which is what the majority of Alliums require to be fully developed and fully nutritional. I estimate that these Alliums will start to fully mature towards the end of April and the beginning of May. Which is the perfect time, for me and my family at least, to store them for the Winter season here in the desert. I strongly recommend growing enough crop to store throughout the Fall and Winter seasons because it is always going to taste better than what you can find at the market and sometimes you cannot even find these specific cultivars of Alliums other than growing them yourself. Thanks again for reading and staying with me through this sustainable journey and I promise I will try to update DAILY. Until next time green thumbs....


¤ KEEP IT GREEN AND KEEP IT GROWING!! ♥

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HyperSmash

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Early Spring Garden Update! 2014





   Hey Fellow Green-thumbs!! It is Early Spring so I decided to do a little video sharing what I am growing in my Organic Sustainable Desert Garden! I'm extremely excited about sharing this video with you fine folk, because it truly shows what you can achieve through gardening in a desert environment. Everything in this video is in early developmental stages of growth, except my Organic Onion Patch. Those are my Winter Onions and take quite a bit longer than my Spring/Summer Onions because of the weather and the amount of sunshine they have been receiving throughout those dreary Fall/Winter months.

   I will do another Garden Update by the end of Spring so you all can see the progress my Organic Desert Garden has gone through. I love doing these type of videos and most of all I love sharing with you fine folk what I can grow in the Desert. Subscribe to my various Social Media Outlets to stay in touch with my Organic Sustainable Desert Garden. Thanks again for watching and staying with me through this journey. It's been fun! Until next time...


¤ KEEP IT GREEN AND KEEP IT GROWING!


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HyperSmash

Monday, March 17, 2014

Pole Beans and Trellis'!

Organic Italian Pole Beans

   Pole Beans require a lot of time and water to germinate at first, but once you see growth like this, it will take off on a spurt. I love to plant my Pole Beans in a pot right next to a trellis. A lot of people have been asking, "Why do Pole Beans need a trellis to grow?". Well the simple answer is that Pole Beans grow vertically, this cultivar of Pole Bean you see above can get up to 8 feet high (2,6 metres). Some cultivars of Pole Beans can actually grow vertically up to 20 feet (6,6 metres), which to me is amazing that a plant can essentially cover a side of a building whilst insulating the building from the weather and providing the inhabitants with delicious crop.

Sustainable Trellis *Made from an old fence*

   I decided to take some gauged wire fencing and some pieces of old wood I tore off from a fence I was no longer using to make a suitable trellis for my Pole Beans. A key thing about being or trying to be sustainable is to reuse anything in your possession for a new purpose. Like these pieces of wood I used for making this trellis a little over 8 feet high (2,6 metres). I will be using the rest of the wood to make signs for my various plants in my garden. *Which I will post a new article regarding each step I use, the tools I use and what materials I found throughout my property.*

   Pole Beans really do NEED a trellis to grow properly or else the vines will just go everywhere and be more accessible to bad bugs and most of all will not feel the wind and won't attract bees properly to it.

   Remember to try to reuse everything you can on your property in a gardeners sense. It's easier and less costly in the long run, which will give you more cash to buy newer seeds or more essential gardening materials. Keep in touch to see my sustainability progress and witness a change in the desert! Follow me on the following Social Media Outlets for constant updates and rants! I ALWAYS FOLLOW BACK!! <3

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HyperSmash

Sustainable Living Tips: Canning

Organic Jarred Tomato Sauce 

   My Fiancee and I have been canning for about 2 years now. We use this process for a majority of crop I grow throughout the spring and summer, to be available to eat during fall and winter. Doing this process usually takes us about a full day or two, just because of all the different food we make to can. In these pictures, we made a batch of tomato sauce and are canning it without any preservatives which will give the sauce approximately a 6 month refrigerated shelf life.

Organic Jarred Tomato Sauce

    I love the fact that you can grow food throughout the spring and summer months, and have a safe and healthy way to store this food for later consumption. If you really are looking into trying to be sustainable and live a healthier life. Learn how to jar and preserve your well looked after crop. It will be a huge expense reliever and also will teach your children the importance of food and the value of money.

   I will be posting an in detail step-by-step process of canning in the future. So be on the look out for that! Check me out on the following Social Media Outlets!! I ALWAYS FOLLOW BACK <3

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HyperSmash

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

ONION SEEDS: WHAT TO LOOK FOR!!

Organically Grown Cippolina Onions (Budding) and English Leeks

   Spring is here and for every gardener that means a major event is going to start....plants starting to seed! There is nothing more awe-inspiring than watching what you have been growing in your garden producing, essentially, offspring. Flowers blossom and bees come to make sweet, sweet love to your beautiful plants. During this process, a wonderful thing happens and that is the production of seeds.

   I honestly and whole-heartily believe that every gardener NEEDS to learn how to harvest seeds and store them properly. The whole point of doing this is so that when you go to resow these seeds, they will be more "in-tune" with your particular climate and elevation which will result in a more abundant crop later on.

Organically Grown Cippolina Onions (Budding), Italian Torpedo Onions and English Leeks

   Once these buds start to blossom and go into seed, I will provide you guys with the information and techniques of when to harvest your seeds. But most importantly, I will show you guys how to dry and store your seeds so that whatever seeds you harvest will indeed germinate when you sow them for your next garden cycle.

   Thanks again for allowing me to share my passion and knowledge of gardening with you fine folk. Be on the look out for future updates and videos! Follow me on these social media outlets! I always follow back ^^. Until next time folks.....

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¤ KEEP IT GREEN AND KEEP IT GROWING!




HyperSmash

PRAYING MANTIS: A DESERT GARDENERS MATE!

ORGANICALLY GROWN GIANT DI ITALIA PARSLEY 

   Everyone always constantly asks me, "How do you maintain a healthy organic garden whilst combating 'Bad Bugs' without any pesticides or sprays?". Well folks, that is probably the easiest question to answer about organic gardening. I use 'Good Bugs' to combat the 'Bad Bugs'.

   Today I will be talking about Praying Mantis and reasons they actually benefit your garden. The Praying Mantis feeds on the majority of 'Bad Bugs' including; aphids, flies, roaches, squash bugs, and moths. If you let your Praying Mantis get big enough, it can actually eat mosquitoes and flies (unless a garden spider catches them in their web!).

ORGANICALLY GROWN GIANT DI ITALIA PARSLEY

   The scary thing about Praying Mantis are they can actually kill small rodents, frogs, snakes and small birds. Which can be a good thing, but you do need Hummingbirds in your garden to promote pollination and they also eat some 'Bad Bugs' as well.

   As you can see in the pictures above, I have attached my Praying Mantis egg sack onto a stake. The reason I did this is because in order to hatch properly, the egg sack has to be a foot or two off of the ground (0.3 metre - 0.6 metre off the ground). I put this egg sack in my Parsley patch because it provides the right amount of shade and wind-break, in which my opinion, is the best home you can offer these little garden defenders.

   I hope this helps you folks plan out your organic garden and realize, you don't need any pesticides or sprays to grow healthy organic food. Thanks again for reading my posts and staying with me on my sustainability journey! Feel free to add me on these various social media websites to see my constant updates of pictures from my Organic Desert Garden! **I FOLLOW BACK!!**

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¤ KEEP IT GREEN AND KEEP IT GROWING!





HyperSmash

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Pole Beans: Companion Plants and Plants to Avoid!



   Another day, and another addition to my "Companion Plants and Plants to Avoid" section! For me, the best type of bean I enjoy are specifically Pole Beans. I love them Frenched, Baked, Broiled, Pan Fried and done in a Wok. I usually grow extra Pole Beans just to throw some in my compost bin because they are a GREAT source of nitrogen bacteria and just break down extremely well in this Desert Heat.

   I usually grow my Pole Beans in a pot that is right up against a trellis, which I make myself. That way I can control how the plant will grow and what direction they will grow in.

   Pole beans are helped by RADISHES. **If you grow your Pole Beans in a garden bed with an angled trellis, plant some RADISHES underneath the trellis. Your Pole Beans will also make a shade wall naturally whilst growing on your trellis, thus providing your organic RADISHES with a proper shaded area.**

   AVOID PLANTING POLE BEANS NEAR SUNFLOWERS, BEETS AND BRASSICAS. **RADISH ARE THE ONLY EXCEPTION FROM THE BRASSICA FAMILY**

   Most of you are thinking, "Why is this nutter just writing specifically about Pole Beans and not just the Beans family?". Well I'll tell you why, Pole Beans grow completely different from Regular Beans and Bush Beans. I also use the same soil mix as my Kale for my Pole Beans, and I have never had any problems growing them that way. For me, Beans and Bush Beans take a different amount of care than their brother the Pole Beans. If you are thinking about starting to grow your own Beans, I would recommend Pole Beans first since they are easier to grow and require less maintenance than other Bean Cultivars. Hope this helps you plan and I hope my information helps you with various questions you have. If you require more information feel free to comment or email me! Until next time folks....


¤ Keep it GREEN and Keep it GROWING!




HyperSmash

Friday, March 7, 2014

Asparagus: Companion Plants and Plants to Avoid!!


Original Photo: plantfreak.wordpress.com


    I don't know about you folks, but I love it when my Fiancee makes Roasted Asparagus to go with our steaks or to go with the perfect Baked Potato! I think Asparagus just gives whatever dish the right amount of eye candy and flavour anyone can ask for.

   That being said, I decided to share with you my knowledge of what to grow with Asparagus and what can cause harm to your Asparagus Plants. **Asparagus Plants take between 2 to 3 years to produce edible spears which grow straight from the ground. I recommend harvesting this spears with an inch left showing above the ground so it can promote a healthy regrowth of new spears.**

   Asparagus help TOMATOES and PARSLEY.

   Asparagus are helped by DILL, CORIANDER, TOMATOES, PARSLEY, BASIL, COMFREY, MARIGOLDS and NASTURTIUMS.

   (The best companion plant in my opinion is BASIL for the fact that if you plant your Asparagus and Basil together, that will actually promote Lady Bugs to come and visit your organic garden more frequently. Lady Bugs love that combination!)

   AVOID PLANTING ASPARAGUS NEAR ONIONS, GARLIC, POTATOES AND GLADIOLAS! **These plants will most likely attract bad bugs and promote poor growth to any and all Asparagus Cultivar**

   I hope this list helps you with plotting out where your Asparagus Spears will be growing, and remember it does take time for your Asparagus to actually produce edible crop so don't freak out if it doesn't produce quality edible spears within the first 2 years. Until next time folks...


¤ KEEP IT GREEN! KEEP IT GROWING!! <3




HyperSmash

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Alliums: Companion Plants and Plants to Avoid!


Organically Grown Italian Torpedo Onion, English Leek, Cippolina Onion

    I don't know about you guys, but in my household, we use various alliums religiously with everything we cook. I love the way they smell raw and cooked. And I'm sure you do too! Well, I promised you fine folk that I would provide more growing information on companion planting and so I decided to share my information on alliums.

    Now most of you are thinking "What the hell are Alliums?" and that this guy is just totally nuts. Well, I'm here to tell you that onions actually belong to a plant family and that family is called "Allium". The Allium family include; onions, garlic, chives, shallots and leeks.

    Alliums help FRUIT TREES, NIGHTSHADES, TOMATOES, PEPPERS, POTATOES, BRASSICAS and CARROTS. *Brassicas are plant family, just like Alliums. Brassicas include; broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, turnip and radish.*

    Alliums are helped by CARROTS.

    AVOID PLANTING ALLIUMS NEAR BEANS, PEAS AND PARSLEY. *These plants will MOST LIKELY bring BAD BUGS or cause overall bad growth to your Alliums*
 
    I hope this list helps you plan your garden around which plants will benefit your crop and not deteriorate its health. I thank you guys for staying with me through my gardening journey and through my sustainability journey. This year I am shooting for my family and immediate family to not be supported through this rubbish grocery/market system. SO stay tuned in for my future YouTube Videos and Blogposts on here. Until next time folks....


¤ Keep it GREEN and Keep it GROWING!!




HyperSmash

Fall Crops, easy crops for beginners part 5 Spinach and Broccoli

And we are back with the 5th entry in the FALL CROPS series!! In this entry I will be covering on how to plant and take care of Spinach an...